Tuesday, November 21, 2006

wedding party pics

So things have been busy but fun this week- I haven't had much "alone time" to speak of, which is a good thing by Senegalese standards! These pics are from a wedding I went to at the center where I dance. These ladies know how to shake it :)
 
This gal braided me up last month (see previous posts)

 
This gal is one of my best friends in the ballet- she has a huge heart, a small kid, and can dance like a madwoman.

 
This is one of the little girls that live with my teacher's family- she is always SO excited to see me when I come for lessons- I think I'm the only one who gives her attention. That is not to say that she is any different from any other little kid here- kids here play with kids. Adults do not play with kids. Older kids hit younger kids when they get too silly- but in the end everyone loves their family (I have yet to meet someone who "hates" their parents here, or even mildly dislikes them). Interesting, huh?

 
This last lass is the girl who teaches me in private lessons- she has a really open attitude, and is one of the nicest of the group. She's only 13 but is an amazing dancer! Posted by Picasa

Monday, November 20, 2006

parade for the president

 
Thought this was a cool photo my friend Hannah took- it was a parade of support for Wade, the current president. With elections coming up in Feb, I'm sure there will be a lot of political "happenings" to relate. Posted by Picasa

Friday, November 17, 2006

more pics from goree

 
a friend buying necklaces on l'isle de goree

  Posted by Picasa
view from the isle (photo by jamila)

holding down the fort, talking trash

Well, Mike has officially taken off to be home for a few weeks, and I am holding down the fort here and hoping to start editing the footage I’ve been running around town shooting next week (fingers crossed that my hard drive ships to Dakar by then!). Though his family is worried about me being here alone, yada yada, everything is actually really straightforward right now- my schedule is packed full between filming, dancing, and teaching! Today I realized that I needed a break actually, so I spent the morning doing yoga and meditating, which was really nice. My doorbell only rang once (people stop by a lot in Senegal, as there is no such thing as personal space), so I had time to read through the yoga magazine that Mike got for Christmas (last year!! Hehehe).

What else? My dance has definitely improved- yesterday in practice I was actually getting a few of the steps more than one of the newer Senegalese dancers- I think the girl who gives me private lessons once a week was pretty surprised- “Yacine, fecc nga buubax buubax tey!” (Yacine, you’re dancing really good today).

Otherwise, my English tutoring is pretty much the same, one of my students (whose mom I cooked chebu jen with in the post before last) is getting ready to take his TOEFL (a qualifying exam to study at a college in the US) in 2 weeks, so I am trying to help him get geared up for that. I met a cool kindergarten teacher at the International school who wants me to teach her new media workshops, so I may start up with that in a week or two, when my schedule gets lighter. She is a really strong, independent Liberian expat lady living in Senegal, though the rest of her family is in Europe and the US. It was interesting chatting with her about her decisions to live in Africa and take care of her mom and many of the family’s children there, in a house that she set up so that the whole extended family could come visit. She was very happy to have me set up her unutilized webcam for her in the classroom and show her how to use Skype to talk to her daughter in London (for those of you who don’t have skype yet, and want to talk to us FOR FREE, go here: www.skype.com , hit download, and set up a username).

Other than that, just living, starting to speak Wolof, and thinking about trash a lot, as trash is everywhere and inescapable here. That and nauseating pollution (that implicates and affects us all). About urban landscapes, “development,” the not-any-smaller gaps between poor and rich, what sorts of small and big things we can do to start to ameliorate these problems, scary articles I’ve read recently about e-trash.

An example: to get to my dance practice I have to sit through about 40 minutes of bumper to bumper traffic, breathing in under-regulated exhaust (I wrap a towel around my mouth) all the way to avoid feeling like vomiting. Once in the cartier, I either go right, to one dance center, which winds me through streets filled with children playing next to bored, tightly tethered goats and metal welders and mechanics, all along the asphalt trickling with the impossibly green tributaries of what can only be raw sewage, or left, alongside the “canal,” which is a pretty word for recessed open-sewer-river from which wafts the omnipresent smell of waste.
This is just on my way to dance class. Of course there are other, more photogenic parts of Dakar, such as the cartiers where expats drive their oversized SUVs home to whitewashed luxury condos, or the stretches of beach and cliff not yet earmarked for huge (and mostly foreign-owned) hotel complexes, but none of these are untouched by the spectacle of waste. So what? This is a problem throughout the “developing” world, and one that we haven’t solved at home, just learned to hide well. What to do with our waste, how to create less of it, how to be mindful of the way we consume, etc. etc. These are problems that will not go away, that are not limited to or affecting only the Third World, and that become depressing when left to rot, if only because of the children playing in the street alongside us.

pics from halloween and goree, no pun intended

 
The world-wide adventures of Aziz and Yacine continued (post from a week back)…

Here we are at Halloween – and in full black cat/pumpkin regalia. Some new American friends of ours (black kitty number two and Cleopatra) and their Senegalese boyfriends had us over for a sort of block-partiesque soiree. Though a good time was had by all, Aziz went back to studying for his GRE (grad school test) within all of 10 minutes of getting home (see pic- still has the pumpkin makeup on!). This is what he does all day, or at least what he tries to do. Be careful or he might start speaking GRE to you (run, run far, get out while you still can!) 

 Above are some kids at the international school near our house, whose Halloween parade I had to film for the video I’m making about expat life in Dakar. The video project is going well, and between that and dancing with a real senegalese dance troupe (talk about lesson in humility), my days are now completely full! I leave the house armed with camera and tripod in the morning, spend the day trying to convince people that I’m making a NON commercial film (people are often very upset when I start filming here, for a variety of reasons) and shooting scenes, head over to dance practice in the afternoons, run home and make dinner, and then go teach my English student at night until I collapse. Overall, quality of life is high, despite being busy. (see pics from my film shoot at goree island) We’ve gotten to welcome a new set of American researchers who just got in to Dakar- it is strange to realize how much we know about life here now, seeing them coming in fresh. We’ve made some good friends already, like the gal in the photo in the next post (entitled more pics from goree), who is staying with us for a few days while she gets her bearings and heads to St. Louis. I went with her and a friend to shoot footage on Goree Island, which I've talked about in previous posts. We even got to beach a little before taking the ferry home.

  (diving in the water at goree)

In the next pic (upcoming)we are doing Somali face masks, which her friend Jamila prepared for us, using a yellow powder that reminded me of tumeric, but is allegedly not. Although their skin was glowing beautifully afterwards, they hadn’t counted on the hazards to toubabs- I spent the rest of the afternoon an interesting shade of yellow!